Five Coat - Setting sleeves

Over the past few month I have been setting a lot of sleeves on various projects, from Tennant Coats to my Burgundy Tennant Suit. Each sleeve, however, does need to be handled a little differently, as the weight of fabric can effect the finished result.

As usual though, I need to create the roll of the sleeve head, and encourage this to happen by sewing three parallel lines of stitching using an extra strong thread (see right). The ends are tied together and the fabric is then gathered a little like the top of a curtain, but stopping just as small pleats start to form. This give the right amount of ease when the sleeve is set.

To give the sleeve head proper shaping I add a standard suiting shoulder pad on the top-side of the sleeve seam (see below, left) and a minimal amount of sleeve-head padding on the under-side of the sleeve seam (see below, right).

This gives just the right amount of shaping. Below are some images of the sleeve head during it sewing, from the sleeve lightly pinned in place (see below, left) to the sleeve sewn, but not padded (see below, centre) and finally finished with the padding (see below, right).

Now I’ve set the sleeves I can add the buttons on the backs of the cuffs. I waited until the sleeves were on because I want to make sure I get the buttons in just the right place so they are positioned correctly.

I need to space the buttons evenly, so I found the best way to do this was to carefully mark a line on the inside of the sleeve to determine their alignment, then mark their individual positions along the line (see right, top). I then stitch them from behind and they are perfectly spaced.

Lastly, because the buttons are closely spaced and not stress bearing, I use a single thread of cotton daisy-chained between them to save time. A quick knot at the start of each button sewing ensures the tread does not put too tight.

That finishes the sleeves for now (see right, bottom), until they are lined later.

Next will be the outer pockets and the skirt of the coat.

Five Coat - Calico progress

I have been working on the Five Coat on and off for a few weeks now, having taken a number of breaks to clear some garment commissions.

I recently had my first go at some of the piping on the coat, doing one of the pocket flaps as a test.

I simply pinned the piping around the flap and hand stitched it in place, finding it a lot easier that I had dreaded! (see above)

I also had a go at piping the sleeve, though in a different way this time. First I made my sleeve as usual, but only sewed the shorter front seam together. I then worked out the level of the piping and lightly marked a pencil line on the calico. I then machine stitched the bottom edge of the piping to the sleeve, which worked very well (see below left).

So the piping would match the lapel and pocket flap edges, I then folded it in half (see above middle) and stitched the other side down too (see above right).

When the back seam was sewn, the piping lined up and the join was on the back of the sleeve out of sight (see right).

All this was certainly easier than I had feared, but now I had broken the ice with piping, I had to face up to another little problem I had been putting off.

Each time I have returned to the coat I have progressed it a little further, but I have equally been finding issues and problems with the pattern I was developing.